September 25, 2002
Marking and drilling the frame

 

Careful measuring determines the center of the car. Using calipers, we measure a specified distance from the centerline and scratch a mark in our inked circle.

measuring from centerline
We then measure form the bottom of the frame and make a mark. It is fairly difficult to drill a perfectly straight hole through the frame. We use a piece of doweling with a level to help identify how far off the hole is. A grinding tool makes the hole larger until the bushing can sit straight and level. bushing in 'corrected' hole
The bushing is tack welded in place, then checked again for level. Then fully welded in place. bushing welded in place
To ease installation, we fabricate aluminum adapter plates that will go between the engine and the frame. The plates are made of ½ inch aluminum and shaped to match the motor.

In a fit of perhaps excess simplification, we have drilled out the threaded holes on the front motor plate and re-sleeved them all to take a 3/8 bolt. The logic behind this is to speed up engine changes by standardizing the tools required.

The front adapter plate is clamped to the engine plate. Working on the drill press, each hole is drilled and a bolt put through.

The rear adapter plate is a little more difficult. We measure the distance between the two engine bolt centers and transfer that measurement to the adapter plate. Luckily we are accurate enough that we do not need to oversize the holes to get a fit.

The next step is to unbolt the front adapter plate and fit it to the chassis. It is then easier to clamp the front adapter plate to the car frame exactly in position, then to try and position the whole motor. With the front adapter plate lined up exactly and clamped, we use the holes in the frame to guide the drill.

 

front adapter plate against the frame

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